ZI CAO SHUI GAO - Nourishing Cream

Also known as: Zi Cao Shui Gao, Zi Cao Shui, Nourishing Cream.

The pink one. This is Dermatology M's bestselling emollient and the cream I hand out most often, because it fits the widest range of skin without pushing anything too far in either direction.

Jojoba, shea and cocoa butter for the barrier. Dong Quai and redroot for the Chinese herbal side. It moistens dryness and nourishes blood, which in practice means it suits pale, dry, thickened skin that has stopped repairing itself.

What's doing the work

• Zi Cao (Arnebia euchroma, redroot gromwell) is where the pink comes from. It cools blood and resolves toxin, and it is the signature herb of this whole formulary.
• Dang Gui (Angelica sinensis, Dong Quai) nourishes and invigorates blood. Classical pairing with Zi Cao for dry, dull, undernourished skin.
• Jojoba seed oil, structurally close to human sebum, so it sits well on skin that rejects heavier oils.
• Evening primrose and kiwi seed oil for gamma-linolenic and alpha-linolenic acid, with bisabolol and chamomile for the sting.

How to use

Apply 3 to 5 times a day, face or body. It layers over the cooling creams once they have absorbed, which is how it is usually used in clinic: clear the heat first, then moisten.

Full ingredients

Aqua (Water), Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Nut Butter, Panthenol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Tocopherol, Phenethyl Alcohol, Angelica Polymorpha Sinensis (Dong Quai) Root Extract, Arnebia Euchroma (Redroot) Root Extract, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Caprylyl Glycol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Xanthan Gum, Urea, Phytic Acid, Pantolactone, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice Powder, Limonene.

Good to know

• 50ml (1.69 fl oz / 48 g) or 200ml.
• Contains shea nut butter and cocoa butter. The formula was reworked in March 2025 and sesame oil is no longer in the ingredient list, though some older labels still carry a sesame warning. If you have a seed allergy, read the jar you receive.
• The pink pigment can mark light fabric. Let it absorb before dressing.
• Vegan and halal.
• For external use only. Keep out of reach of children.

Dermatology M, formulated by Dr Mazin Al-Khafaji. Selected and reviewed by Dr. Stacee Munroe, OMD, L.Ac. Cosmetic use only. Not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.